The Resale Revolution
Second-hand Fashion Boom: A Sustainable Shift or Overconsumption in Disguise?
The fashion industry is undergoing a significant transformation, with second-hand apparel taking centre stage. ThredUp's 13th Annual Resale Report reveals that in 2024, the U.S. second-hand apparel market grew by 14%, outpacing the broader retail clothing sector by five times. Online resale platforms saw a 23% increase in growth, marking their strongest performance since 2021. The overall resale market is now projected to reach $350 billion globally by 2028, with £6 billion expected from the UK alone.
The Appeal of Second-hand Shopping
Several factors contribute to the rising popularity of second-hand fashion across the U.S. and the UK:
Affordability: With the cost-of-living crisis still affecting UK households, shoppers are turning to Vinted, eBay, and Depop for cheaper alternatives. The ThredUp report found that 59% of consumers would turn to second-hand if apparel prices rise further, a trend also reflected in the UK, where inflation has driven up the cost of new clothing.
Sustainability: Consumers are increasingly aware of the environmental impact of fast fashion. The UK has one of the highest textile waste levels in Europe, with an estimated 300,000 tonnes of clothing ending up in landfill every year. Resale is seen as a solution to extending the life cycle of garments.
Mainstream Retailers Getting Involved: In both the U.S. and UK, major brands are investing in resale. Selfridges has pledged that 45% of its transactions will be circular by 2030, and John Lewis and M&S have launched take-back and resale schemes.
The Overconsumption Paradox
While the growth of resale appears to be a win for sustainability, it also raises concerns about a new form of overconsumption:
Thrift Hauls & Fast Fashion Mindset: Social media-driven "thrift hauls" encourage excessive second-hand shopping, mirroring the fast fashion cycle. In the UK, the rise of influencers promoting second-hand clothing from Depop and Vinted has led to bulk buying, sometimes just for content creation.
Quality & Longevity Issues: Many items found in thrift stores and resale platforms originate from fast fashion brands known for lower-quality garments. In the UK, charity shops have reported an influx of ultra-fast fashion brands like Shein, which aren’t designed to last, leading to continued waste.
Exports of Second-hand Clothing: Overconsumption in the UK means that much of what doesn’t sell in charity shops ends up being exported to Africa, often contributing to textile waste crises in countries like Ghana and Kenya. This questions whether second-hand shopping is truly slowing down fashion waste—or just displacing the problem elsewhere.
Striking a Balance: How to Shop Second-hand Sustainably
To harness the benefits of the resale boom without falling into overconsumption, consumers can adopt the following habits:
Buy With Intention: Whether shopping on Vinted, eBay, or Vestiaire Collective, focus on high-quality, timeless pieces rather than impulse buys.
Support Local: Charity shops remain a pillar of UK second-hand culture, with initiatives like Oxfam’s Second-hand September encouraging mindful shopping.
Invest in Repair & Upcycling: Platforms like The Seam in the UK offer repair services to extend the life of garments rather than constantly replacing them.
The rise of second-hand fashion is reshaping the industry, but true sustainability requires a shift in mindset, not just where we shop, but how we shop. By embracing mindful consumption, we can ensure the resale revolution leads to lasting change rather than just a new form of excess.